Mello Blocco 2015

Mello 2015

Five years it has been, 5!, since I last went on a bouldering trip. I was 6 months pregnant with Amber back than. So when Leah Crane told me, that if I wanted, I could come with her and Liam to Val DI Mello (for Mello Blocco) I got super excited. As soon as Andy's mum said she could look after Amber for a few days I booked my flights. Out of habit I picked skirts, dresses, and bikinis, and started to think what toys to bring for Amber. Non of the above, obviously, ended up in my bag (although Amber did give me one of her toys, 'just in case you get bored mummy', she said).
I've been to Mello Blocco once before. In 2008, Andy (Earl), Percy (Bishton), Smith (Martin) and I did the comp. I (surprisingly) ended up on the podium next to e.g. Adam Ondra and Barbara Zangler.
This year I wasn't remotely interested in the competition, I just wanted to climb.
Like packing for a climbing trip, I'd forgotten what Mello Blocco was like (a big busy outdoor festival and competition that attracts some of the strongest climbers in the world). The first day of the competition (on Thursday) I mainly watched Leah Crane, Kata Saurwein and Anna (who all stayed in the same house as us) and some of the strong boys (e.g. Andy Gullsten, Gabri Moroni, Stefano Ghisolfi) climb and dispatch blocks. Massively inspired by their climbing, but too intimidated by most blocks, I didn't pull on much myself that day.
The following day it rained, which meant we couldn't climb. Instead, we went on a mission to find the remaining competition problems (which wasn't an easy task, I can tell you). I massively enjoyed being outside in the mountains all day surrounded by lots boulders, so I wasn't too bothered about the rain. For the competition climbers it obviously wasn't great the blocks got soaking wet. Fortunately the sun came out again on Saturday, but most competition blocks were still dripping from overnight rain. In the morning we tried to dry 'Lista Da Piuma' one of the ladies problems, but were forced to try it in wet conditions (and failed topping it). Because most other comp problems were still wet as well, and because I  didn't want to take part in the competition anyways I decided to leave the girls and climb with Christian (of Marmot) and Klaus (the Austrian team physio), which was really nice.
Since Amber was born I haven't had a day without any 'obligations' (e.g. Looking after amber or working), a whole day just for me. Now I had 4 whole days for myself. I'd forgotten how much you can do in a day when you have nothing to 'worry' about or no one to look after. And I know this sounds dramatic, but without these worries and 'obligations' I found a bit of myself back again. A bit I lost 4 years ago, after Andy had his stroke, when Amber was born and I became a mum. So I climbed till it started to rain (in the evening), had meal with great people, watched the presentations of Steve House and Christian Core and enjoyed the Mello Blocco's after party till long after midnight.
After only 3 hours sleep I got up for the last day of Mello Blocco. Leah wasn't keen either to try the wet  competition blocks any longer, so we spend this last competition day climbing on any dry rock we could find. After the prize giving (well done Kata and Andy for both coming second) Leah went back climbing, dispatching some more problems. By that time my body had given in to the sleep deprivation and refused to do any physical activity.
The next day it was time for me to go back home, see Amber and Andy (who I both missed a lot). My flight wasn't till 5:20pm. So, depending on the weather we would either climb outside with Andy (Gullsten) and Nalle (Hakkataival) or go to a wall in Milan. Liam, Leah, Andy and I ended up in a climbing wall in Milan for a short boulder session. A good training for the ASBO finals I had to set that week.


I can't thank Leah and Liam enough for letting me come with them. This trip has motivated me massively, I've  made some new friends, I got to climb outside and I found a piece of me back again. Here's to more trips in the future.



 

My amazing shoes

Something I should of written down much sooner, a massive thank you to Scarpa UK who is the most loyal climbing shoe sponsor ever

In 2008, when I just started to go out with Andy, Andy's sponsor (Scarpa UK) asked me why I wasn't wearing any Scarpa shoes. I told them I didn't wear leather and that all Scarpa shoes available where made of leather (with a little of lorica). 6 weeks later, on my way to Swiss, I received 3 pairs of hand made non-leather scarpa shoes. I was extremely overwhelmed and humbled by this gift. I vividly remember the first time I climbed on my new shoes. We were warming up in the 'Deliverance' area in Chironico, and the first problem I pulled onto was 'L'ape nagia' (F6c) was on. It felt awkward climbing on my new shoes, but they stuck to the rock and made me climb the problem easily. That trip I climbed harder than I had ever climbed before. I'm sure it was partly because of my shoes. Not only because they are amazing shoes, but also because the shoes symbolised Scarpa UK's believe in my abilities and potential (I.e. external support can make you feel so much stronger).
Two years later, in December 2010 I gave birth to Amber and just before her birth Andy suffered his severe stroke. These two major events in my life stopped me from going on climbing trips and (therefor) sending hard problems outside. This didn't, however, stop Scarpa from supporting me. Ever since 2008, they've  provided me with special hand-made non-leather climbing shoes. And they have never asked me to do anything for them in return.
I can not thank them enough for what they've done for me. I love my Scarpa shoes and I'm very proud being sponsored by them. Thank you so much Scarpa UK.

New strengths

It's April, we are four months into 2014 and last week was the first time (the first!) this year I climbed on real rock. How on earth did I manage to climb inside almost all winter? I know the weather hasn't been great at the start of this year but we definitely had some beautiful days (if not weeks) recently.
Coming to think of it, I guess my focus on why I'm training inside has lost some direction in the last few months (years). Ever my shoulder injury (which started well over 8 months ago) I mainly tried to keep fit (and strong) enough to be able to test the problems we set and show people I coach how to do problems. Whereas I use to train to be able to climb well outside (for me).
Because of this (horrible, chronic) shoulder injury I had to focus more on my body position, shoulder stability and deep core (both on and off the wall). Pull-ups, campussing, dead hangs etc. simply hurt my shoulder too much. Thanks to the help of some very clever and talented friends of mine (Jimbo a shiatsu practitioner and Helen a physiotherapist), I've been able to continue to climb with this injury.
So when I got back on real rock this week I had no real expectations (other than being shut down on real rock). Therefor it was even more satisfying to climb transformer LH at Bowden (given 7C by some) a problem I've never managed before. Maybe those months of belly dancing, shoulder stability, hip positioning etc. exercises actually have developed some new sort of strength. A strength that can benefits the (older) injured climber ;). Thanks for your help Jimbo and Helen. I appreciate it a lot.

28000 Holds

The weather hasn’t been great in England for quite some time now. I actually can’t remember the last time we had consecutive dry days. Which is probably one of the reasons why I haven’t climbed on real rock for almost two months now. 

Fortunately I don’t mind climbing inside. ‘Us Dutchies’  (i.e. most Dutch climbers) spend most of their climbing time pulling on plastic, so it is what I’m used to. Besides that, climbing indoors seems much more efficient*. And when you don’t have (as) much spare time that is a good thing. This doesn’t mean I don’t miss climbing outside, I do, a lot. 

At the end of the day I don’t train to be able to demonstrate the problems we’ve set at the wall. I still train to be able to climb new problems outdoors (and because I love training of course ;)). 

Speaking of setting, we (Andy, Chris and I) set at the Arch the other day. It was nice to set at another wall. Especially at such nice wall as the Arch (with it’s different angles and holds and it’s friendly staff). After two days of setting, including their comp wall, I was totally broken. I’m not sure if it was because of the setting and testing on their steep angles or because of the lack of sleep (we only had 4 hours if that). What I do know is that setting at Climb Newcastle is much easier. After 5 years of setting at the same wall (± 10 problems a week,± 10 holds per problem, for ± 280 weeks resulting in ± 28000 holds I’ve put on the wall) you’re used to it. But even after 28000 holds, I still love setting at ‘our’ wall. 

Our reset at the Comp Wall of The Arch

Here are some (links to) video’s of the movements (a very small) part of these 28000 holds created.

http://www.climbnewcastle.com/video.php

Suzan Dudink on Brown #12 at ASBO 13 - YouTube

More Greys with Suzan Dudink at Climb Newcastle - YouTube

Suzan on Pink #1 at Climb Newcastle - YouTube

And here’s a link to the video on how the problems we set are created ;)

Setting the Scene - YouTube

* more climbs/ tries per time unit 

Stil (Quiet)

A couple of weeks ago I red something written about me that made me realise it was time to start blogging again. A dutch climbing website said: 'Rond Suzan is het tegenwoordig stil, i.e. 'we haven't heard anything of Suzan recently'. This took me a little by surprise till I saw my last blog dates from June 2012, no wonder....

People do say 'time flies when you're having kids', but it seems unfair to hold Amber responsible for my lack of blogging, although....;)

...when they climb, you don't ;)

I guess the main reason for being 'quite on the net' is because I use to blog about our climbing trips. Ever since Andy's bleed (back in December 2010), two weeks before Amber was born, I haven't been on a real climbing trip. Simply because Andy is physically not able to climb (and was long unable to walk on uneven surfaces) and because Amber wanted to be looked after by me. Fortunately Amber is getting more independent and Andy much more confident and able to walk on 'off road terrain', so maybe we will go on a climbing trip together again one day. But because that day hasn't come yet, it has been quite on my blog.

So why haven't I blogged more about climbing in Northumberland? Well, basically because it took me a while to get used to the idea of going to a crag by myself, and when I finally did, it took me even longer to 'really climb' on my own. I was so used to climbing with Andy (or friends) that climbing alone felt awkward and scary to start with. But I start to enjoy it now. Although I still don't push myself in case I get 'seriously' hurt and there's no one to help (I know, what a girl ;)). 

Last week I dropped Amber off at nursery and drove straight to Bowden Doors. The sun doesn't hit most of the rock till about 11am so I had a couple of hours to climb. Bowden is such gorgeous place when you have it 'all to yourself'. I spend most of the time trying to find a solution for 'Transformer RH'. Because I feel fully stretched when I get the undercut I find it hard to hold the swing out of 'the roof' (mainly because I end trying to hold the swing with two hands on the undercut since the crimp feels out of reach). I didn't manage to finish it (yet), but keen to go back and try it again because I'm sure it goes (with the right sequence. 

Around 10am the air and rock started to warm up, and with the lack of air movement that day (there was no wind whatsoever), friction started to deteriorate very rapidly. I decide to quickly try Poverty Right Hand before heading home. To my surprise I did it 2nd go, in the heat (I used my first go to make sure I would land on the mat). This can only mean the problem needs serious downgrading. Whereas other problems at Bowden might need some upgrading. Like Manta left hand which I did a couple of weeks back. Manta LH feels more like 7b or even harder when you actually have to hold the broken holds. Awesome problem to climb though, now that the holds are broken. 

Just done Manta LH

The past five days I've ended up climbing a lot inside. On Friday Andy, Chris and I set new grey problems (our hardest set of the wall), after testing them on Friday I went back Saturday and Sunday to send most of them. On Monday we put our orange problems up (the second hardest set of the wall). Both springer and I felt drained after testing. I can't remember the last time I felt so physically tired. Yesterday (Tuesday) I ran my ladies coaching session, and although I didn't do much, I wouldn't count it as a rest day.

Setting, setting setting

When I dropped amber of at nursery this morning I drove straight to Back Bowden for my 6 consecutive day of climbing. A little fresh air, some sun and maybe some easy problems would do my body good, was my thought. Like Bowden Doors, the sun doesn't hit the main rock (Merlin Wall and Sorcerer's Cave) of Back Bowden till about 11am. Even though the rock felt warm and my skin sweaty I managed to climb 'Under the spell', 'Low and Hard', 'The weird Sisters Two' and 'The vole right hand SS' (although this might be an eliminate). I even got of the floor of 'Sorcerer's Apprentice' ;). Pleased I  went and psyched for the autumn (winter) to arrive with its crispy cool air and good friction.

That's it for now. I'll try and blog more frequently. Oh, and for those interested in how Andy, Amber and Fonz are doing: absolutely great. I've got a pretty amazing family around me :). 

Andy and Amber

Fonz and Amber

A Wednesday morning in June

'Dutch courage', the highball in Shitlington, I opened several years ago

The weather hasn't been great in England, the last few weeks. No surprise, I haven’t been able to climb outside much since the day in the Woods with Frank and Wieneke. Only once, to be precise.

A couple of weeks ago I went to Shitlington with John, Bob and Steve. The name describes the area well, it’s not the best of venues in the county. I thought I’d never been to Shitlington before (Andy would never of taken me there), till I passed this huge boulder. It turned out to be the first (and only) highball I opened several years ago. I must admit I was pretty impressed I had once climbed that problem.

Because the forecast of today looked quit good, I decided to take Fonz to Shaftoe for a couple of hours. Amber is at nursery on Wednesday mornings, which gives me just enough time to have a short in- or outdoor session. 

I warmed up in the moves of ‘Lost Arrowhead’, a 7c traverse. As soon as I found a sequence, I managed to link the moves and do the problem. There must be limitations to ‘Lost Arrowhead’, or the holds of the problem have become bigger over time, because it felt way too easy for a 7c.

Fed up with the flies hovering underneath the Lost Arrowhead cave, Fonz and I moved on to the Main Buttress (one of my favourite blocs in the county).

First, I worked in ‘Sloppy Poppin sitstart’. Besides the first move (which is probably a 7c move on its own), I got the problem wired. Straight after I tried ‘Central Wall’. All of a sudden I could do most of all the moves (something I haven’t been able to do before). I didn’t, however, dare to do the last move without a spotter.

All in all, it was a satisfying and pretty successful morning. As soon as I can do a one-arm lock-off on a sloppy crimp I will be able to finish ‘Sloppy Poppin sit’, and I’ll finish ‘Central Wall’ as soon as I bring a spotter along. Something tells me ‘Central Wall’ will be in my bag a little sooner.....

Fonz and the 'Main Buttress' 

Climbing on a hot Saturday afternoon

You would think every climber knows that, when it’s sunny, friction is (most likely) best in the shade. So when it’s sunny you choose a problem in the shade.

Maybe the Dutch are different after all....

It was good seeing you both again Frank and Wieneke.

Frank, preparing himself to climb The problem in the Sun