Mello Blocco 2015

Mello 2015

Five years it has been, 5!, since I last went on a bouldering trip. I was 6 months pregnant with Amber back than. So when Leah Crane told me, that if I wanted, I could come with her and Liam to Val DI Mello (for Mello Blocco) I got super excited. As soon as Andy's mum said she could look after Amber for a few days I booked my flights. Out of habit I picked skirts, dresses, and bikinis, and started to think what toys to bring for Amber. Non of the above, obviously, ended up in my bag (although Amber did give me one of her toys, 'just in case you get bored mummy', she said).
I've been to Mello Blocco once before. In 2008, Andy (Earl), Percy (Bishton), Smith (Martin) and I did the comp. I (surprisingly) ended up on the podium next to e.g. Adam Ondra and Barbara Zangler.
This year I wasn't remotely interested in the competition, I just wanted to climb.
Like packing for a climbing trip, I'd forgotten what Mello Blocco was like (a big busy outdoor festival and competition that attracts some of the strongest climbers in the world). The first day of the competition (on Thursday) I mainly watched Leah Crane, Kata Saurwein and Anna (who all stayed in the same house as us) and some of the strong boys (e.g. Andy Gullsten, Gabri Moroni, Stefano Ghisolfi) climb and dispatch blocks. Massively inspired by their climbing, but too intimidated by most blocks, I didn't pull on much myself that day.
The following day it rained, which meant we couldn't climb. Instead, we went on a mission to find the remaining competition problems (which wasn't an easy task, I can tell you). I massively enjoyed being outside in the mountains all day surrounded by lots boulders, so I wasn't too bothered about the rain. For the competition climbers it obviously wasn't great the blocks got soaking wet. Fortunately the sun came out again on Saturday, but most competition blocks were still dripping from overnight rain. In the morning we tried to dry 'Lista Da Piuma' one of the ladies problems, but were forced to try it in wet conditions (and failed topping it). Because most other comp problems were still wet as well, and because I  didn't want to take part in the competition anyways I decided to leave the girls and climb with Christian (of Marmot) and Klaus (the Austrian team physio), which was really nice.
Since Amber was born I haven't had a day without any 'obligations' (e.g. Looking after amber or working), a whole day just for me. Now I had 4 whole days for myself. I'd forgotten how much you can do in a day when you have nothing to 'worry' about or no one to look after. And I know this sounds dramatic, but without these worries and 'obligations' I found a bit of myself back again. A bit I lost 4 years ago, after Andy had his stroke, when Amber was born and I became a mum. So I climbed till it started to rain (in the evening), had meal with great people, watched the presentations of Steve House and Christian Core and enjoyed the Mello Blocco's after party till long after midnight.
After only 3 hours sleep I got up for the last day of Mello Blocco. Leah wasn't keen either to try the wet  competition blocks any longer, so we spend this last competition day climbing on any dry rock we could find. After the prize giving (well done Kata and Andy for both coming second) Leah went back climbing, dispatching some more problems. By that time my body had given in to the sleep deprivation and refused to do any physical activity.
The next day it was time for me to go back home, see Amber and Andy (who I both missed a lot). My flight wasn't till 5:20pm. So, depending on the weather we would either climb outside with Andy (Gullsten) and Nalle (Hakkataival) or go to a wall in Milan. Liam, Leah, Andy and I ended up in a climbing wall in Milan for a short boulder session. A good training for the ASBO finals I had to set that week.


I can't thank Leah and Liam enough for letting me come with them. This trip has motivated me massively, I've  made some new friends, I got to climb outside and I found a piece of me back again. Here's to more trips in the future.