woensdag 16 april 2014

New strengths

It's April, we are four months into 2014 and last week was the first time (the first!) this year I climbed on real rock. How on earth did I manage to climb inside almost all winter? I know the weather hasn't been great at the start of this year but we definitely had some beautiful days (if not weeks) recently.
Coming to think of it, I guess my focus on why I'm training inside has lost some direction in the last few months (years). Ever my shoulder injury (which started well over 8 months ago) I mainly tried to keep fit (and strong) enough to be able to test the problems we set and show people I coach how to do problems. Whereas I use to train to be able to climb well outside (for me).
Because of this (horrible, chronic) shoulder injury I had to focus more on my body position, shoulder stability and deep core (both on and off the wall). Pull-ups, campussing, dead hangs etc. simply hurt my shoulder too much. Thanks to the help of some very clever and talented friends of mine (Jimbo a shiatsu practitioner and Helen a physiotherapist), I've been able to continue to climb with this injury.
So when I got back on real rock this week I had no real expectations (other than being shut down on real rock). Therefor it was even more satisfying to climb transformer LH at Bowden (given 7C by some) a problem I've never managed before. Maybe those months of belly dancing, shoulder stability, hip positioning etc. exercises actually have developed some new sort of strength. A strength that can benefits the (older) injured climber ;). Thanks for your help Jimbo and Helen. I appreciate it a lot.